Em uses

em uses
add little rock salt to em diluted  for minerals

FOR ANIMAL WATER: 
Add just enough EM to barely tint the water. When administering to food, start with 1-2 drops and increase up to 1 tsp daily.

FOR PLANTS: 
DO NOT USE STRAIGHT ON INDOOR PLANTS.
Add EM to watering (with or without fertilizer) at the ratio of between 1:500, 1:1000 or 1:10,000 depending on how frequently you use EM and if it is being mixed with fertilizer. EM may be used with every watering.

KITCHEN: 
soak plastic dishes and wooden utensils and bowls
wipe counters
rinse dishes (dishwasher or by hand)
as soak for any cooked or caked on containers
clean produce or meat (especially fish, seafood and poultry)
in the cooking water
clean refrigerator

BATHROOM: 
clean toilet
clean shower

OTHER: 
clean carpets
mist onto carpets between cleaning to reduce animal smells
mist onto stuffed furniture to reduce dust mites and odors
use in laundry (in wash or rinse cycle), especially for musty rags or forgotten washer loads (CAUTION – the microbes may break down dyes faster)
for cleaning any foul smelling messes
deodorize EVERYTHING (urine, vomit, garlic/onion)
diffused in the air to rid odors in house (steam works best, but misting is effective too)
to rid puddles of mosquitoes
to clean rust of tools

in wells
in septic tanks
in paint (but check with company about this because I have never tried it, and I suspect that you have to use the paint IMMEDIATELY before it is broken down – but it is suppose to have incredible benefits)
on wooden decks
poured onto roof for moss control
ANIMALS:
as a rinse after bathing (reduces doggy-odor and leaves their coat soft)
in their ears for mites & ear infections
mist onto coat of animal that has ‘rolled’ in something smelly (great for skunk-sprayed animal)
in their water and food
in the kitty litter box – pouring straight EM on wood shavings and placing this at the bottom works best, but misting straight EM onto the litter box is useful too

PERSONAL CARE: 
in bath water (with baking soda to soften)
to brush onto teeth
breath control

as a hair rinse
to remove unwanted fragrances from hair and skin products
to clean wounds and sores
in itchy ears
for insect bites or other skin irritations (stinging, burning or itchy)
athlete’s foot or other fungal problems
a cleansing enema or douche (mildest solution)
under-arm odor (instant bath)
in drinking water

Wherever I smell odor I use EM

Wherever I smell odor I use EM. I have an elderly lady friend whose old dog is incontinent, so her house wreaks of animal urine. I took some EM in a spray bottle and misted the entire carpet, which reduced the odor immediately and was still effective 3 weeks later!

I also found that one of my cats seems to be a mite-magnet. She has 3 favorite chairs that cause us to itch whenever we sit on them. Repeated use of EM on her and the furniture has gotten rid of this problem.

I found a simple solution to animal odors and cooking odors. I simply put a pot of EM-water on the stove and simmer until gone. EM is activated by heat, released in the steam and cleanses the air. I would imagine this is good for anyone who is ill, or with lung problems, or for babies and children.

I read something in Dr. Higa’s book that made me try EM in my curbside gutters that were a breeding ground for mosquitoes. I found a little EM once a week keeps them from laying eggs!

I also read how EM removes rust and decided to try it on an old horseshoe before subjecting any of my tools to the treatment. I made a strong solution and placed half of an old rusty horseshoe into the solution. After 24 hours the rust was gone, even inside the nail holes. That was over a year ago and the shoe remains rust-free today. I then felt it was safe to subject my tools to a rust-removing dip.

Did I mention that animals who are totally surrounded with EM have odorless shit? My dogs never got totally smell-less but it did decompose into what looked like wood shavings within a couple of days and it didn’t draw flies.

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 EM technology will improve:

• Seed germination and plant health
• Plant nutrient uptake
• The composting process (including bokashi composting)
• The soil in your lawn and garden
• Water quality
• Breakdown of sewage sludge
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• http://www.emsustains.co.uk/EM-1.htm

• EM-1 will keep for up to 12 months if unopened and kept in a cool dark place. When opened, it should be used within 3 months.

  Making EM-A is done by mixing EM-1 with molasses (which must be sugar cane and not sugar beet molasses) and water and allowing them to ferment in a sealed vessel for 7 days at @ +25 centigrade.
  1 litre of EM-1 will produce 20 litres of EM-A, which can then be further diluted 1:100 with water
• Making EM-A is done by mixing EM-1 with sugar cane syrup (molasses), not sugar beet syrup and water and allowing them to ferment in a sealed vessel (ensure a one way valve is present, so that the CO2 produced during the fermentation can escape) for 7 days at @ 30deg centigrade. Mix at the ratio 5% EM-1:5% molasses:90% water. Do not use a metallic heating element in the fermenter - a thermostatically controlled fish tank heater is ideal.
• • The bacteriological activity of EM-A is reduced at temperatures lower than 6 °C. The micro-organisms are not dead, just lying dormant and are reactivated again when the temperature increases.
  • Spraying, atomising or scattering of EM preparations should be done with a diluted solution of 1:100. This is best carried out in the morning or evening or during wet weather.
  • If applying EM-A outside, don't do so in strong sunlight as this is detrimental to photosynthetic bacteria in EM.
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• http://www.emsustains.co.uk/EM-A.htm
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• Making EM (Bokashi)Compost
  Use a combination of organic materials with either a high or low ratio of carbon and nitrogen, e.g. wood/straw and grass. In order to increase the microbial diversity as much as possible, it is recommended that at least three different materials are used.
  
  The method for making a typical Bokashi compost is as follows:
  1. Organic material (kitchen/garden waste) 100 litres (volume)
  2. EM-Active 200 ml (dilute with water - see below)
  3. Dilute this EM-Active solution slightly so that it can be mixed with the various fresh organic materials such as     grass, weeds, shredded cuttings etc.
  4. Heap the material up in layers and press down firmly so that as much oxygen as possible is released from the     heap.
  5. Finally cover the heap with a plastic sheet or a piece of carpet.
  6. Leave this to ferment for at least six weeks before using the material as plant fertiliser.
  NOTE: The final product is not composted but fermented. This means the EM-Active will transform the heap into valuable fertiliser for ground and plants. The end result will not look the same as traditional compost but it is pre-fermented so that soil organisms can make optimal use of the material and there is absolutely no wastage which occurs from a rotting process.
  
  The amount of water you use to dilute the EM-Active depends on the moistness of the material used. The degree of moistness of the heap must not be higher than thirty percent. You can check this as follows: press the materials with your hands into a lump - the lump should remain whole and no moisture should leak from it.
  Almost all organic materials are suitable for making Bokashi. If you are a keen gardener, there is nothing to stop you making your own at very little cost.
  Usage:
  0.5 kg Bokashi / m² 2.6.
  Traditional Compost Heaps
  Use of EM-Active as starter for traditional compost.
  The traditional way of making compost from kitchen/garden waste can be advanced by applying EM-Active regularly to the compost heap or container. Use: 1-2 litres EM-Active / 1 m³ or 1000 litres
  
  
• for bokashi
• 1-2 litre em active /1000 litre  dilute for compost heaps/container
• 1:1000 for bokashi or 2:1000
• 100kg kitchen waste or anything for compost/bran
• 200ml ema dilute with 200,000 ml water
• ie. 5ml/10ml to 5 litre water em dilution for composting/fermenting bokashi
• bokashi making
• 1 kg waste/bran, 2ml ema,in 2-4kg water 
• (only 30% moist for this)
• mix press cover plastic ferment for 6 weeks  for bokashi making, only 30% moist for this
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Dilution - EM and activated EM can be diluted with water for application with ratios from 1:50 water to 1:10000 water. This ratio depends on the frequency of application and the area you are trying to cover. For example, daily use through irrigation systems is often done at very diluted ratios. Use on turf and in gardens would be lower.

1:250 dilution for foliar sprays and a 1:100 for turf and soil, and I believe that 85 ml (1/3 cup) of EM per thousand square feet would be a good place to start:

• 1:10000 - for daily use, such as through an irrigation system
• 1:1000 - for weekly foliar use; 20-125 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft
• 1:100-1:250 - for monthly use as a foliar feed; higher dilution (1:250) is better if possible; 85-500 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft
• 1:50 - for monthly/seasonal use on turf and as a soil drench; higher dilution (1:100) is better if possible; 85-500 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft
• 1:1000 - for soaking seeds; 5-10 minutes only, as some seed may ferment after too long
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• Compost - 1:100 until compost is moist, but not soaked (like a wrung out sponge
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•  to ferment flowers and young, tender leaves if the application rate is below 1:250. If you have prize roses, it would be best to use a more diluted ratio to avoid this possibility. Note that the application rates above and below are for the EM before it has been diluted.
  If you're using city water and you want to get rid of the chlorine, leaving it in a pail for 24 hours will be sufficient to dechlorinate it in most cities. In some cities such as Victoria, however, they use chloramine in the water (chlorine and ammonium), which does not dissipate as readily. In this case, a small amount of humic acids or a crushed Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) tablet can be stirred into the water before use.
• (for chlorinated water 24 hr open, 1 crushe vit c into water before use)
• bokashi
• You can make your own bokashi by fermenting bran or sawdust with a mixture of EM, water, and molasses. It’s much like activating EM: The ratio is 1 part EM to 1 part molasses to 100 parts water. Add this liquid to dry bran and mix until the bran feels evenly moist but not wet. Then pack the bran firmly in an air tight container, cover the top to keep out oxygen, and let it ferment in a warm place for one to two weeks. When it’s done, the bran should have a sweet and pleasant smell. It can now be dried and used in the bokashi bucket with your food scraps.
• Activated EM works just as well as EM mother culture for making bokashi bran, and saves money
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• Kitchen scraps are fermented in a sealed bucket with the help of bokashi bran infused with effective microorganisms. Because the scraps are essentially pickled, there is neither odour nor insects, and virtually no limit to what can go in the bucket: You can compost all vegetable and fruit materials including citrus, as well as raw or cooked food, and even dairy, fish, meat, and bones.
  In a plastic bucket with a tight fitting lid, layer bran and food wastes until the bucket is full, then let this sit for a couple of weeks with the lid on tight. 
  The fermented material can then be buried in the garden and will continue to decompose underground, while creating a nutritious depot of organic matter in the soil. You can plant the spot as early as two weeks later. It’s a win-win: Re-using kitchen waste right at home where it was generated, and providing nutrients and beneficial microorganisms to your garden soil at the same time!
• Bokashi can be used to activate compost 
• (mix one pound/453 gm bokashi bran into a quarter yard/9 inch of organic matter and keep covered). It can also be dug into the soil at a rate of one pound per 200 square feet, or be used to topdress lawns and gardens. Last not least, bokashi can be fed to livestock at a rate of 3-5% of their feed rations.

• Bokashi

  Bokashi consists of bran that has been fermented with effective microorganisms and then dried for easy storage. It is used primarily in bokashi composting, and as a general soil amendment.
• http://www.gardenerspantry.ca/great-tips-and-videos/activated-em.html
• http://www.gardenerspantry.ca/microorganisms/effective-microorganisms.html
• http://www.gardenerspantry.ca/microorganisms/compost-tea.html
• https://www.smilinggardener.com/sale/sea-minerals-fertilizer
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_effective%20microorganism.html
• 
  
• Using EM to make an Insect Repellent
  This mix will make a non-toxic chemical free insect repellent. It can be used to prevent pest and disease problems in the garden. It acts by creating a barrier around the plant thereby protecting it from insects. The mix can be enhanced by including garlic, hot peppers or aloe vera . These are chopped or mashed prior to adding to the mix.
  Mixing

  Warm water (chlorine free )	:	300 ml
  Molasses	:	50 ml
  Natural vinegar	:	50 ml
  Whiskey or ethyl alcohol	:	50 ml
  EM liquid concentrate	:	50 ml

  Select a suitable sized container for mixing, some plastic bottles with caps for storage and a funnel. Add the molasses to the warm water and stir till thoroughly mixed. Then add the vinegar, whiskey and EM concentrate. Pour the mix into the plastic bottles and add small quantities of chopped garlic etc. Seal as tightly as possible and leave in a warm dark place. Release any gas produced at least twice daily by releasing the cap. The EM is ready for use when the production of gas has stopped and the product has a sweet fruity smell. The mix can be stored in a dark cool place which has a uniform temperature for up to 3 months. If garlic extract has been used, filter this out before storage. Do not store in the refrigerator.
  Using EM insect repellent mix
  Dilute 20 mls of the mix in 2 litres of clean water in a sprayer and spray enough of the mix to wet the crop. Spraying can begin from seed germination or plant establishment and before pests and diseases can be seen. If an attack occurs use up to 30 mls of solution in 2 litres of water Spray weekly either in the morning or after heavy rains for best results.
  EM the natural product
  • EM is the trade mark used to identify this particular mixture of beneficial organisms
  • E.M. is a combined culture of aerobic microorganisms (requiring oxygen to survive) and anaerobic (requires no oxygen to survive) that co-exist together to the mutual advantage of both (symbiosis).
  • E.M combines with the existing microorganisms within the soil. They work together to build a healthy living soil.
  • E.M is not toxic or pathogenic and is safe for humans, animals and the environment.
  EM in action
  Current research indicates that EM cultures can suppress soil-borne pathogens, accelerate the decomposition of organic wastes, increase the availability of mineral nutrients and useful organic compounds to plants, enhance the activities of beneficial micro-organisms, e.g., mycorrhizae, nitrogen fixing bacteria, and reduce the need for chemical fertilisers and pesticides. EM helps to increase beneficial soil micro-organisms and supression of harmful ones.
  Using EM Liquid
  Concentrate
  As a foliage application
  Apply weekly using a clean sprayer and spray directly onto the plants ensuring through wetting. This should be done in early morning or late afternoon for best results and to prevent leaf scorch.
  As a soil application
  Give a good watering ensuring the solution fully drenches / wets the soil. Apply as required around mature plants or on open ground. When incorporating organic matter/compost into the soil, apply EM dilution to the organic matter before digging in.
  No dig gardening
  Cut any annual weeds, grass, or crop residues at least 5 cm from the ground and place the material on the soil as a mulch. Spray EM liquid weekly on the mulch and plants.
  As a compost application
  Apply to the compost heap to reduce troublesome odours and flies as well as improving the compost process and quality. Preferably spray on with a hand sprayer to prevent over wetting the compost heap and apply at each addition of fresh material if possible.
  EM for the garden
  EM is a liquid concentrate and in this form the micro organisms are alive but dormant. It is a dark brown liquid with a pleasant vinegary yeasty type smell. The pH of this liquid is approx. 3.5. To activate the EM simply dilute the concentrated solution with clean chlorine free water. The EM solution which is then produced is a yellowish brown in colour with a pleasant smell.
  Where to use EM Liquid
  Concentrate
  EM Liquid Concentrate can be used as a pre planting treatment, as a foliar spray, or for actively growing fruit and veggie crops, and for all ornamental plants. In fact anywhere in the garden including your compost heap or areas of poor or stagnant soil.
  Applying EM Liquid Concentrate
  Use EM liquid concentrate in the garden at the rate of 5ml EM concentrated solution diluted in 1 litre of clean chlorine free water. Apply at the rate of one litre per square metre. These are minimum recommended rates for use.
  How to improve the performance of EM concentrate
  (This following procedure is optional )
  You will need
  • 10 litre watering can
  • 10 litres of chlorine free water (water can be left to stand for 24hrs to allow the chlorine to evaporate)
  • 10-20 ml EM Concentrate
  • 10-20 ml Molasses
  If necessary, dissolve the molasses or brown sugar in a little warm water first. Then pour the molasses or brown sugar into the 10 litres of water and stir thoroughly. Add the EM Concentrate into the molasses, water mix and stir well. The EM then uses the molasses as a food source, so kick starting it into action quicker.
  Leave the mix to stand in a warm place out of direct sunlight for 1-2 hours to allow the EM to activate more fully. Apply at the rate of one litre per square m etre. Do not store any of the made up solution. These are minimum recommended rates for use.
  EM in the soil
  Most organics including animal manures and composts have populations of micro-organisms. Many of these are beneficial upon introduction to the soil, however they are soon overwhelmed by the existing soil microorganisms. Thus, the beneficial effects of micro-organisms introduced with the application of composts are often short lived. On application EM cultures are subject to the same fate when applied to the soil environment. But the advantage of EM is that beneficial microorganisms are in much greater numbers, and in optimally-balanced populations when introduced, so remain dominant in the soil for a much longer time.
  The effectiveness of EM can be extended in soils by three applications of EM at 8 - 10 day intervals during the first 3 to 4 weeks after planting a crop. This will insure that EM populations remain high throughout a critical a period when young seedlings and plants are vulnerable to environmental stresses (drought, heat, weeds, and pathogens). It is at this stage when the greatest loss in crop yield and quality occurs.
  EM cultures and organics
  EM cultures have been used effectively to inoculate both farm wastes as well as urban wastes to reduce odours and hasten the treatment process. EM has also been used with great success as an inoculant for composting a wide variety of organic wastes. An EM culture known as EM Bokashi can be used for composting food organics and other compostable materials. EM Bokashi is a fermented compost starter made from sawdust and wheat bran. When the correct conditions are provided EM sets in motion a fermentation process to transform food and other organic materials into compost.
  EM effects on soils and crops
  EM has been used on many different soils and crops over a wide range of conditions. Results show that in most cases EM gives positive results. EM is not a substitute for other management practices. EM technology is an added dimension for optimising our best soil.
  and crop management practices such as crop rotations, use of composts, crop residue recycling, and biological control of pests. If used properly EM enhances soil fertility and promotes growth, flowering, fruit development and ripening in crops. It can increase crop yields and improve crop quality as well as accelerating the breakdown of organic matter from crop residues. The population of beneficial micro- organisms in the soil is also increased helping to control soil diseases through competitive exclusion. In New Zealand EM has Bio-Gro certification as an “Approved organic product”.
  EM for weeds pests and diseases
  EM is not a pesticide and contains no inorganic chemicals. EM is a microbial inoculant that works as a bio-control measure in suppressing and/or controlling pests through the introduction of beneficial microorganisms to soils and plants. Pests and pathogens are suppressed or controlled through natural processes by enhancing the competitive and antagonistic activities of the microorganisms in the EM inoculants.
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  2. EM-based quick composting
  Effective micro-organisms (EM) consist of common and food-grade aerobic and anaerobic micro-organisms: photosynthetic bacteria, lactobacillus, streptomyces, actinomycetes, yeast, etc. The strains of the micro-organisms are commonly available from microbe banks or from the environment. There are no genetically engineered strains that are in use. Since 1999, seven small-scale organic fertilizer units have been using the EM-based quick production process in Myanmar. They are owned and operated by women's income generation groups. A unit consists of nine pits measuring about 180 cm (length) × 120 cm (width) × 90 cm (depth), enclosed by low walls and covered with a roof .
  Raw materials
  The raw materials for organic fertilizer production are:

  Cow dung	:	2 portions
  Rice husk	:	1 portion
  Rice husk-charcoal	:	1 portion
  Rice bran, milled	:	1 portion
  Accelerator	:	33 litres of EM solution or Trichoderma solution per pit

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  3. Preparation of EM solution
  One litre of 'instant solution' is made by mixing 10 ml of EM, 40 ml of molasses and 950 ml of water and leaving it for five to seven days, depending on temperature. The solution is then added to 1 litre of molasses and 98 litres of water to obtain 100 litres of ready-to-use EM solution. This amount is enough for three pits. The EM solution functioning as accelerator reduces the composting period from three months to one month.
  Procedure
  All the ingredients are mixed together, except accelerator. A 15 cm layer of mixture is spread in the pit and accelerator is sprinkled on it. This procedure is repeated until the pit is full. The pit is covered with a plastic sheet. Two or three weeks later, the whole pit is mixed in order to boost aerobic decomposition. The compost is ready to use a couple of weeks later. A pit produces 900 kg of final product per batch. The product is usually packed in 30-kg plastic bags. Assuming that it takes 30 days on average to produce a batch and that only eight pits may be used for technical reasons, the annual potential production capacity is 86.4 tonnes (0.9 tonnes × 8 pits × 12 months). Within the framework of the FAO Technical Cooperation Programme project on promotion of organic fertilizers in Lao PDR (TCP/LAO/2901), a simple EM-based quick composting method, as detailed below, is promoted.
  Raw materials
  The raw materials for compost production are:
  • Rice straw
  • Farmyard manure
  • Urea fertilizer
  • EM solution
  Procedure
  Straw is stacked in layers of 20 cm height, 1 m width, and 5 m length to form a pile. A unit pile is about 5 m (length) × 1 m (width) × 1 m (height) in size. The pile is sprinkled with water  for adequate moisture content, followed by addition of a manure layer 5 cm high, and the sprinkling of a few handfuls of urea (100-200 g). EM solution, prepared in the same way as described in the Myanmar example, is sprinkled to accelerate aerobic decomposition.
  This procedure is repeated until the pile is about 1 m high and then it is covered with a plastic sheet. The pile is turned after two weeks and then again after another week. Normally, the compost is ready two weeks later when the heap has cooled down and the height of the pile has fallen to about 70 cm.
• http://www.teraganix.com/EM-Fermented-Plant-Extract-s/259.htm
• PROCEDURE: 
  1. Collect plant material such as weeds, vegetable trimmings, and leaves. If possible chop the plant material into small pieces (i.e. 2" x 2"). Fill the bucket with as much material as possible.
  2. In a separate container prepare EM•1® solution at 1:1:100. (2.5 tbsp of molasses and 2.5 tbsp of EM•1 ®per 1 gallon of water)
  3. Pour the EM•1® solution over the plant material, filling the bucket all the way to the top.
  4. Seal bucket with an airtight lid.
  5. Place solution out of direct sunlight and allow material to ferment for a period of 2 weeks. After 2 weeks test the pH. The solution pH should be between 3.2 and 3.7.
  6. Strain off the liquid into another container. The strained liquid is the Fermented Plant Extract.
  7. The EM•1® FPE is used as a foliar spray to prevent pest damage to plants. Dilute this solution 1:500 (1.5 tsp per gallon) and spray on plant leaves as needed.
  8. The fermented plant material (not the liquid) can be used as a nutrient-rich fertilizer or compost starter. If used as a fertilizer, spread it out very thin due to its strength.
  9. Store unused EM•1® FPE in a dark place with relatively uniform temperatures. Solution may be stored up to 90 days.
  10. https://www.cog.ca/documents/07SU_EffectiveMicroorganisms.pdf
  11. https://in.pinterest.com/mlazoutsomou/effective-microorganisms/
  12. http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11356-015-5617-x
  13. http://www.eftepe.kabel1.cz/em/em%20and%20wastewater%20systems.pdf
  14. http://www.eftepe.kabel1.cz/em/em%20and%20wastewater%20systems.pdf
  15. tp://www.eftepe.kabel1.cz/em/em%20and%20wastewater%20systems.pdf
  16. http://www.greenfriends.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Guidelines-for-practical-use.pdf
  17. http://www.emhawaii.com/upload/EMTeachersManual051005.pdf
  18. http://www.recycleworks.co.uk/EM-Bokashi-Mud-Ball-Effective-Microorganisms.html
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_agripest.html
• http://www.agrifarming.in/em-solution/
• http://www.envismadrasuniv.org/pdf/EMGuide.pdf
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_weed%20mgt.html
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_panchakavya.html
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_success%20stories.html
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_nutientmgt.html
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_recycling%20of%20farm%20waste.html
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_biofertilizertechnology.html#biofertilizers
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_composting.html
• http://agritech.tnau.ac.in/org_farm/orgfarm_composting.html